Trophy Fish

	Blue Cod More information Scientific Name Parapercis colias Legal Length & Limit 30cm and 33cm in the Central & Southland FMAs The daily bag limit varies around New Zealand Auckland and ceanral 20 per person Challenger area is restricted Kaikoura- north Canterbury 10 per person Southern regions 30 per person Fiordland area 20 per person Description Blue cod known to the Maoris as rawaru, are endemic to New Zealand and are one of the best fish for eating. Inquisitive, they will often approach divers and nip their fingers as they are very territorial. It is exclusively found in New Zealand in shallow waters around the rocky coasts of up to the depth of 150m, though they are far more common south of Cook Strait. Male blue cod are bluish green to blue black above with white toward the belly. Large examples are usually greenish blue in coloration, while smaller ones are blotched in varying shades of brown. Females are darker with brownish white marbling. In autumn tiny juveniles, white with tiny black stripes may be seen darting about. Habitat & Feeding They are exclusively found in New Zealand in shallow waters around the rocky coasts, though they are far more common south of Cook Strait but are also widely distributed from the Three Kings Islands to the north, the Chatham Islands to the east, and the Snares Islands to the south. They live on the bottom, and adult fish eat almost any animal that comes their way. The blue cod lives down to 100m in areas of rocky bottom, with patches of sand and weed. It is voracious carnivore and eats a wide variety of marine animals: pilchards, sprats, mullet, rock cod, and red pigfish. Age & Growth Blue cod can live to 17 years and reach a length of 60cm and weight up to 4kg but an average is ½ to 1kg. An adult may grow to 60 cm in length and weigh from one to three kg. Spawning takes place in southern spring once thay reach 20-25cm 3-5 years old. Blue cod can also change sex from male to female Food Quality The smoked flesh of the blue cod is regarded as a delicacy. It is a plump fish which produces good fillets of white flesh, but it has very low oil content. It can be served battered, crumbed, pan-fried, smoked or baked. Hunting Techniques Creating a burley is a sure-fire way of attracting any large blue cod in the area. The use of a burly cage will insure the fish stay in the area. Often small burly will be quickly eaten and the fish will move on. Once feeding they won’t be going far, so take your time. Blue cod can also be attracted by the use of flashers. Where to Shoot the Fish Aim for the heads as this will dispatch the fish quickly and will leave you with undamaged fillets. Equipment An accurate small speargun is best. The most common speargun length is between 70cm – 90cm , or a pole spear will create more of a challenge.
	Hapuku More information Scientific Name Polyprion oxygeneios Legal Length & Limit There is no size limit on these fish Daily limit is 5 except Fordland marine are internal water 3 Description Polyprion Oxygeneios otherwise known as Hapuka or Groper are a truly magnificent sight. A large, slow growing long lived species. Primarily a gun barrel grey colour with a silvery white underbelly ten dorsal spines running along its back, rounded anal and pectoral fins with a large square powerful tail the Hapuku is unmistakable once seen. The lower jaw protrudes from the top and when a school approaches the white underside of this jaw is usually the first thing seen by the diver. The Hapuku has very large eyes adapted for hunting and inhabiting low light conditions. Habitat & Feeding Juveniles are thought to be pelagic associating with flotsam and floating vegetation in open water, switching to demersal at about 50cm total length. These fish inhabit temperate and subtropical waters of the southern Indian and pacific oceans found in Chile/ south eastern Australia and New Zealand the adult Hapuka are usually associating with some sort of structure they favour cracks caverns or caves in shallow water. Hapuka can be found in anywhere from 10 – 800 metres. Generally found in deeper waters, 50 metres plus, there are a few exceptions such as Fiordland and the Chathams where fish can be found in much shallower water. Hapuku are veracious predators feeding on Red Cod, Blue Cod, Gurnard, Hoki , crabs and Crayfish to name a few. Age & Growth Hapuka are a large slow growing, long lived species. Maturing at 10-13 years with a life span of up to 60 years. They can grow as large as 80kg but fish around the 20-30kg mark are more common. Food Quality Hapuka are a highly rated eating fish. Fetching top dollar on the local and international market. A firm white flesh and like any fish is easily over cooked. Hapuka can be filleted or cut into steaks, the cheeks and throat are particularly good. Baked or fried but not generally eaten raw it is by for one of the nicest eating fish in our waters. Hunting Techniques Normally found in very deep water this species is out of reach of most spearo’s . But in a few places around New Zealand these magnificent fish are in residence in shallow water. The Chatham Islands is one such place. The hapuka generally associate with some sort of structure and, if limited in number, can be cagey and not always easy to spear. Behaving in a similar manner to the med groupers they have a tendency to bolt and hide among the labyrinth of caves and cracks in the structure in which they are living. It is in these instances one might employ a snooping technique. Stealth is required along with a short reel gun and a torch to locate the fish hiding among the caves and cracks. Once the fish is speared, preferably with a kill shot it is then a matter of extraction. When the fish are in large numbers they can be found mooching in mid water, even just below the surface. Locating them with the use of a colour sounder helps then entering the water ready for instant action. The Hapukas curiosity will get the better of them and in these instances can be quite approachable and easily speared. We would recommend a longer gun for larger fish hanging on the outside of the school. It doesn’t take long for these fish to become weary and loose interest bolting into the depths or to nearby structure.
	John Dory More information Scientific Name Zeus faber Legal Length & Limit John Dory are included as your combined daily bag limit of fin fish. There are different amounts allowed depending on where you are in New Zealand. Auckland Central and Challenger are 20 per person South East Area, Southland Area, and Fiordlans Area are 30 per person Description These distinctive fish are cardboard thin and barely visible head on. They are the master of illusion. The high dorsal fin with its extended rays, and out spread tail are motionless in the water. The john dory’s colouration are silver-grey or light brown with green-brown wavy stripes and a central black spot with a silver ring around it. Habitat & Feeding The John Dory usually get there food by stalking it then shooting out a tube in its mouth to capture its prey. The John Dory eats a variety of fish, especially schooling fish, such as Koharhu and babe snapper. Occasionally they eat squid They are a poor swimmer and rely on stealth and camouflage to stalk their prey of small baitfish. Their predators are sharks, like the dusky shark, and other large bony fish. John Dory are most commonly found around the inshore coastal waters of New Zealand north of Cook Strait. They are found in depths down to 300 m, but most commonly in depths of 50 m. Age & Growth Typical life span is 12 years . john dory occasionally reach sizes in excess of half a meter in length. males reach maturity at 23-29 cm length and females at 2-35cm length Females are larger than males, reaching a maximum length of 60 cm. Food Quality John dory are delicious eating, has medium flakes and is white when cooked. It is suitable for most cooking methods and has good Omega-3 levels. Hunting Techniques John dory are often found on the weed edge where small bait fish are found. They are easy to shoot as they don’t dart off like other fish. The hardest thing is spotting them, they are the master of camouflage. John dory also like flashers and will follow a burly trail. Where to Shoot the Fish Dispatching john dory near the head is always best as it protect the fish fillets. Equipment Flashers like our in shore flasher as they are smaller and easy to manage. Any speargun will work but normally 70cm to 120cm is best.
	Kahawai More information Scientific Name Arripis trutta Legal Length & Limit Kahawai are included as your combined daily bag limit of fin fish. There are different amounts allowed depending on where you are in New Zealnd Auckland Central and Challenger are 20 per person South East Area, Southland Area, and Fiorlans Area are 30 per person Spearfishing Advice Kahawai can be seen in most conditions or habitats, generally a good sign of bigger fish to come (Kingfish) regarded as a none target species they still make good eating when cooked correctly. The fish needs to be bled when caught. Larger sea run Kahawai can provide excellent fun especially with new spear fisherman. Schooling Kahawai can hold Trevally so it is important you watch and wait as the school passes.
	Kingfish More information Scientific Name Seriola lalandi lalandi Legal Length & Limit 75cm, Bag Limit 3 Description Kingfish, Yellow Tail, or Southern Kingfish (Seriola lalandi lalandi) are a solid-bodied elongated / compressed pelagic game fish. Kingfish are easily recognizable by their distinct yellow tails and (dorsal, pectoral, caudal) fins. They are generally dark green in colour, with a white stomach and a yellow stripe, which runs along the pectoral line to their caudal fin. They are fast-swimming, streamlined carnivores with smooth scales. Their large yellow caudal fin is small in surface area, which results in little turbulence giving them excellent power and swimming ability. Most Kingfish are counter–shaded which is more noticeable in the bigger adult fish, where they are bluish / greenish on the top half of the lateral line and silvery white below the lateral line. This results in an effective camouflage common in ocean- going fish. The darker top half camouflages it by making the fish difficult to see from above because it closely resembles the dark colour of the water. The lighter bottom half has the same effect when looking upward toward the light from the ocean floor. The silvery-white stomach blends in with the light rays shining downwards, making it difficult to see them against the light. The minimum size for M.A.F regulations is 75cm, with a daily bag limit of three per day – which is ridiculously generous. A Kingfish of 20-25kg would feed an entire family. Conscientious spearo’s should limit themselves to one fish per day if it’s at least 1m or more in length. Habitat & Feeding Kingfish are a typical pelagic schooling fish however, one can encounter juvenile Kingfish hunting in the shallows. The depth at which Kingfish are found can vary, as they do often move into the shallows to hunt. Divers have recorded them in depths ranging from shallower reefs and estuaries, to deep pinnacles reaching and exceeding depths of 50m. Generally, they prefer rocky reef structures and pinnacles; with current moving past them. Current in the water is one of the critical success factors to finding the fish. Another promising location that generally has a higher success rate would be FADs (Fish Attracting Devices) such as navigational buoys, or man-made FADs in the water. They are most abundant in the summer, but can be found year-round in far northern waters. Most divers however have to wait until the summer months when the water temperature warms up and they move further south down the coast. New Zealand Kingfish will hunt up and down the country chasing smaller fish species such as baitfish, piper, garfish, squid, octopus, koheru and kahawai. Often seeing these smaller fish in schools is a good sign that you may run into a Kingfish, as the Kingfish will be actively seeking them. Shooting smaller fish such as cohere, or the use of burley, have proven effective in bringing in a Kingi. Age & Growth It usually takes a Kingfish up to 21 years to reach its full growth size of 2.5 metres or more and they can weigh up to 40-45kgs. These are considered to be ‘large’ Kingfish, in reality the 15-20kg range is the most common catch. Their lengths vary from smaller “rats” of 75cm up to bigger adults in the 2m range. Growth parameters show that female Kingfish take longer to grow than males do, however females reach a greater overall length than the males. Adult Kingfish are easily identifiable by the faded colouring on them. Smaller “rats” have distinct green and white colours. Food Quality Kingfish are excellent eating fish with thick white fillets; they have a pleasant flavour and only a few large bones. Kingfish have a moderate oiliness to them and they are easily adaptable to a variety of cooking methods. They make excellent sashimi and to cook, are best prepared in foil on the BBQ or baked to retain flavour and to keep the fillets moist. Avoid overcooking them as this results in a dry texture. Using a citrus or garlic marinade prior to cooking will also aid in the retention of moisture. Hunting Techniques Before attempting to hunt these fish – one should always seek advice and ensure that he/she has adequate experience. So you’re keen on landing a big Kingfish, but where and how do you find them? New Zealand waters are renowned for some of the biggest Kingfish in the world – international and local spearfisherman hunt these mighty fish right here on our doorstep. From early October through to April, we see Kingfish populate the North Island but with current climatic changes, we are seeing them as far as the Deep South. Kingfish love rocky structures with dominant underwater pinnacles and currents that hold baitfish. Hunting Kingfish can be very rewarding and challenging at the same time. The ecstasy of fighting very powerful fish and the hunt to locate them; for some is a bigger rush than diving deep. The fun begins once the Kingfish have been located. They will most often swim in schools, hunting in packs; the fish will work a pattern of coastline, revisiting the same pinnacles every 20-40 minutes. Inquisitive by nature the Kingfish will most often come right up to you – stealth is not an art that you have to master. Presenting yourself as a foreign object in the water is enough to entice them. Due to their curious nature, keeping your body calm and motionless in mid water is enough to draw them in. In most situations the Kingfish will swim towards you to see what you are, usually a few smaller fish will lead the school; then within seconds you could have hundreds of fish milling around you or the rocky structure below. When hunting on a deep pinnacle, the Kingfish will usually approach you. The approach is crucial! Always dive away from them, and not directly onto them. The best method is to dive in the general direction that they are swimming. Diving towards them will only make them spook and detour away. Keeping your eyes slightly hidden, you should lock the fish in your peripheral vision as this allows you to approach them indirectly without scaring them. Plan your descent so that you intercept their swimming direction and execute your shot from there. Shouting through one’s snorkel underwater can also draw in a disinterested Kingfish. Where to Shoot the Fish Careful placement of a shot will ensure your odds of landing a Kingfish; they have very soft flesh and tearing often results in lost fish. When spearing the fish – try to land your shaft just above the pectoral fin along the lateral line behind the gill plate; this will provide a solid holding shot which will effectively bleed the fish out, resulting in less struggle and a quicker death. Once a solid holding shot has been achieved, the diver can surface and begin the battle. An injured Kingfish can be deadly; many a diver has drowned from entanglement – caution / alertness is paramount. An injured Kingfish will have a violent and powerful first run; most often it will head for the rocks below trying to dislodge the spear. The most important factor is to keep your line away from your body and fins. Kingfish will swim in circles so it is vital that you do the same to avoid becoming entangled. Once the fish has tired somewhat – get a mate to apply a second holding shot – this will often calm down a violent contender. Eventually when it runs out of steam, you can secure the fish by grabbing it under the gills and wrapping your legs around it – delivering a quick “iki” to seal the deal. Equipment Ideally you will have a decent-sized gun, bungee /hard-line and a sufficient float with one of two flasher rigs attached. We’ll examine these in more detail next. Flashers Using flashers is an effective way to attract Kingfish into range. There are two types of flashers that can be used: drop flashers and in-line flashers. When diving on deeper pinnacles, both in-line and drop flashers can be used to lure Kingfish closer to the surface and within range of a shot. Drop Flashers Fig.1 A drop flasher is used with two divers – one diver will concentrate on ‘teasing’ or working the flasher – while the other will wait for the Kingfish and dive down to intercept the fish once it is in range. Essentially one diver is the ‘bait’ while the other is the shooter. To work the flasher you have two options: firstly unwind the flasher to the desired depth which should be a depth to which you and your dive buddy can safely dive. You want to be able to reach your dive partner if he gets into any trouble – so it is paramount that you can both hit the same depth. If the pinnacle is deeper than you can safely dive, one would use the flasher to attract the fish up from the bottom. Unwind your flasher down to the sides of the pinnacle and pull it up and down; the Kingfish, being very curious, will investigate it and swim in circles around it. At this stage you can keep ‘teasing’ /‘jigging’ the flasher and raise the Kingfish up – while the second diver can descend and take the shot. The second option is to unwind the flasher to a safe diving depth and lock it off so it won’t unwind any further. Holding the float in your hand, you can dive with the float to the desired depth. Once at your limit, you can ‘jig’ the flasher a few times and then let it go – the float will rise to the surface along with the flasher, flashing its way to the surface; leaving you free to watch for an approaching Kingfish. In-line Flashers Fig.2 This is an effective way to bring Kingfish in when you’re descending. The in-line flasher is a series of smaller flashers attached to your float line. The flashers are approximately 2m above you and, as the diver descends, the momentum while diving will make the flashers spin/move. The in-line flasher keeps teasing as you dive, which eliminates the need for a separate diver to jig it. It is however, wise to have someone spot for you, while you dive to the bottom – to make sure that you surface safely. Speargun Requirements A decent long range speargun is best. When selecting the speargun you should consider accuracy and range as the most important factors. The most commonly used size is a 120cm rail-gun – using a 130cm or 140cm gun however will increase your shooting range. The more range you have on a shot- the easier your job. See below: Shaft Requirements An important factor to consider is having your shaft balanced with your speargun. For targeting Kingfish, a shaft not exceeding 7.5mm in thickness would be very effective. A 7.1mm shaft with a 130cm rail-gun, is a well-balanced set up delivering a long and devastating shot. Floppers vs. Slip-Tip A well-placed shot using a standard shaft with a flopper will hold effectively – yet a slip-tip is usually a guaranteed fish on the boat! A slip-tip will penetrate the fish and provide a “back-up” so in the case that your shaft did get dislodged – the slip-tip would remain in the fish acting as a wishbone. When selecting a slip-tip you do need to ensure that it’s balanced and will not cause your shaft to drop during flight resulting in an inaccurate shot. It is very important to mention once again: treat these powerful fish with respect, dive within your limits, and if you are not comfortable with the shot don’t take it!
	Snapper More information Scientific Name Pagrus auratus Legal Length & Limit The daily bag limit varies around New Zealand North Cape to Cape Runaway, out to a distance of 200 nautical mile offshore. 9 per person, 27cm in length Remaining Auckalnd Karmadec Area 10 per person, 27cm in length Central Area daily bag limit of 10 per person, 27cm in length Challenger Area a total bag limit of 10 excluding Malborough Sounds sub limit of 3. 25cm in length. South East Area a total bag limit of 10 and 25cm in length. Southland Area & Fiorland Area a total bag limit of 30 and 25cm in length Description Not many spearo’s need an introduction to the snapper. Snapper (Pagrusauratus) as they are referred to scientifically – are probably one of the most abundant and prized fish speared in New Zealand. Snapper are usually pinkish or reddish-brown on the top half and silvery-white on their bottom half although these colours can vary depending on the snapper’s habitat. Dull pinkish snapper are commonly found on deep muddy grounds; whereas deep pink /red snapper are found closer inshore and brown-coloured snapper are found on reefs. Their bodies are usually covered in luminous silver/blue spots, predominantly on the younger snapper, which are referred to as ‘squires’ or ‘pannies’ (pan-sized snapper). As the snapper grow, these spots begin to fade and the snapper become more solidly colored. Probably their most recognizable features would have to be their long spiny pectoral and dorsal fins, as well as their large sloping foreheads which are found particularly on adult snapper. They are also called hump head snapper, moochers or ‘old man snapper’. Snapper are known to school but it’s also common to find larger adult snapper in pairs or by themselves. Snapper generally range in size from 30cm to 90cm; from 2kg to 10kg in weight – although some monster specimens have been caught and encountered close to the 20kg mark. Habitat & Feeding As one of the more abundant species, snapper inhabit most of the coastal regions around the country. Larger populations are concentrated around the North Island, on the east and west coast – with their major spawning grounds found in the Hauraki Gulf. Snapper can be encountered in a variety of grounds from scattered sandy areas near weed edges (on weed lines) to shallow inshore, rocky areas, where they like to hide amongst the kelp. Snapper love to sit in the current or surge around the rocks and often a strong current / surge is a good sign that you might run into snapper. It’s common to find big moochers sitting in the shallows sunning themselves in the early morning – divers have actually reported them sleeping in the sun in the shallows. Snapper have large and very effective teeth – with sharp canines in the front and rounded molars at the back that they use to crush a variety of small fishes, invertebrates and crustaceans. They feed on over 100 different species such as crayfish, kina (sea urchins), crabs, pilchards etc. Often using one of these species as burley will bring them in. Age & Growth Snapper reach full maturity around 4yrs old and about 30cm in length. The average schooling snapper that are encountered can be anything from 4 to 10 years old and the larger snapper around 5+kg can be anything from 20 to 60 years old. During the 4th year, about half of the snapper are believed to change sex and become males. The growth rates of snapper can vary depending on food, local surrounding conditions,fish density and temperature. Snapper prefer to spawn in warmer waters (during summer), cooler waters tend to make their spawning more erratic. Food Quality Snapper are renowned for their brilliant eating quality and are regarded as one of the best eating fish in New Zealand. They have soft white meat and quite a few bones. Fillets can normally be quite chunky (if filleted correctly) and their flesh is delicate in flavour and texture. The fish can be adapted to a variety of recipes, but are best lightly pan-seared or smoked. Cooking them whole is another great way to preserve the succulent flavor of the meat and enjoy this delicious fish. Hunting Techniques John dory are often found on the weed edge where small bait fish are found. They are easy to shoot as they don’t dart off like other fish. The hardest thing is spotting them, they are the master of camouflage. John dory also like flashers and will follow a burly trail. Where to Shoot the Fish How do I find a snapper? Snapper can be located in a variety of areas; from open water to all types of reef structure. Your best chances of finding them and spearing them are in the shallow reef areas. Look for structures and rocky points with deep gutters extending from the shallows to the deeper water. Snapper like to sit beside or under rocky structures and weed using it as cover to hide from any predators. There are a few main types of hunting techniques used for spearing snapper: these being snooping, midwater hunting and ground baiting. We’ll elaborate on all of these a bit more – but first there are a few factors that one needs to take into account when hunting this species. Tides + sun Working the tides and the sun are two of the most important factors when hunting snapper. Understanding the feeding habits of your prey will also increase your chances of landing a snapper. Snapper like to sit in the current looking forwards for any approaching prey; they use the current to sense /smell their next meal. With snapper sitting headwards into the current, your best approach is from behind; this means that you should swim into the current and your approach would bring you onto the snapper from behind. If you swim in the opposite direction to the current, you will most likely bump into a snapper face to face. Often a strong current is a good sign that there will be snapper in the area. With your approach sorted, the next very important step is to swim with the sun behind you /on your back. The sun hides your approach and body shape; if the snapper happened to turn and face in your direction – it would be blinded by the sunlight, giving you time to execute your shot. Always make sure the sun is behind you or on your back and that you swim into the current. Snapper Snooping The most vital factor with snapper snooping is stealth! You need to be as quiet as possible in the water while snooping for snapper. Don’t chuck your kayak or boat anchor into the water – let it down slowly and quietly. A good point to remember – if you’re diving from a boat, get your boat-man to drop you 20-30m from your snooping grounds, then swim in so that your presence is unknown. Don’t jump into the water – rather slide in slowly to ensure that you don’t make any unnecessary splashes. Make sure that none of your equipment makes any awkward noises or vibrations. Check that the mono line or rubbers on your gun don’t vibrate – a sure way to prevent this is to hold your hand over the rubbers and mono, about mid way up your speargun. Open-muzzle guns are also great for snapper snooping, as they hold the shaft to the speargun which eliminates any side to side movement or rattle. Make sure your float doesn’t clank against any rocks or that your float line doesn’t get tangled on rocks and weed and make noise. A diver’s float line can also give him away as it offers a direct line from the surface to the diver. For this reason many spearos prefer to use reel guns with a drop weight on the end of a float line. This allows you to un-clip your line and leave it behind; this is also particularly useful for marking burley spots. With no line attached to your gun it offers freedom to move and sneak up on your prey without getting tangled up on any objects. You have to become very conscious of any little sounds that you/your equipment make. Concentrate on having a silent entry and exit in the water for each and every dive that you do. When surfacing, never blow through your snorkel to clear it – underwater this sounds like a loud foghorn to the snapper; rather tilt it backwards on the surface to empty the water out. When descending, remove your snorkel from your mouth so that it doesn’t make any bubbles or gurgling noises while filling up with water. To avoid splashing, try to descend quietly by submerging yourself /sinking into the water – rather than duck diving. Ensure that your fins don’t clank together or touch one another while finning and, to avoid making unnecessary noise, try to pull yourself along the bottom, where you can, using the weed. When moving through the water make sure your movements are very slow and quiet. Ensure that you don’t bang your gun or weightbelt against rocks, or clink your gun handle against the lead on your weight belt etc. Stealth is paramount in this game – if you are loud, you will have compromised all the ground that you have just covered. After every dive ask yourself if you or your gear made any noise, and try to avoid it on the next descent /ascent. A classic mistake, the spearo has spooked a big snapper by swimming into the sunlight. The spearo is blinded by the sun, so cannot see very far ahead and the snapper is long gone. A spearo snoops quietly in the shallows – scouting broken rocky reef with the sun on his back. A big old moocher snapper sits beside a rock in the weed facing into the current – sunning itself, unaware of the silent spearo approaching. Remember the current and the sun; you need to find a very calm dive spot with little swell and good rocky structure. Swim as close to the rocks as possible – so close that you could pull yourself along with your hands. Snapper are very alert and will always spook with any sign of danger or noise. With the sun on your back, using the rocks and weed as cover – always try and remain in the shadows (if there are any). You need to hide your profile, using cover as much as possible – camouflage wetsuits help with this as they break up the diver’s shape. Move along quietly, scanning the weed and rocks for areas which snapper would hide in or sit beside. Sometimes only a slight fin movement will give them away. You need to treat every gut and rock structure as if there were a big moocher hiding in it or beside it. Your movements need to be so slow that you are almost drifting. Pull yourself along and stop for a few seconds – scan the area and then carry on doing the same. Treat it as if there were all the time in the world. Snooping can take hours; you need to have no time constraints. When peering over ledges or around rocks, always have your gun tucked in so that it doesn’t extend out and give you away. Be ready for a quick shot and enjoy the stalk; snapper snooping can be one of the most rewarding types of hunting! When you learn to slow down in the water, you’ll begin to see the fish. Ground baiting (burleying) We use this technique in addition to snapper snooping. When you have discovered an area that is very fishy, and has smaller snapper about with a good current running through it – ground baiting (burleying) is a good way to draw in the bigger snapper. Ground baiting is like setting a trap for the fish so that you can ambush them. Burley could consist of anything from smashed-up kina (sea urchins), to chopped-up fish, or pre-frozen burley – a combination of all three works very well. You need to find a good burley spot – a place where you can approach it without being seen by the fish – your approach is paramount; you need to be able to watch the burley without any fish seeing you. You also need to be able to move backwards or away from the burley spot without being seen. It’s important that the burley is set at a comfortable diving depth, so that the diver can have longer bottom times. A good example would be a nice deep gutter where you could lie on the top of a rock (with the sun on your back) amongst the weed and angle your shot downwards towards the burley and the fish feeding in the gutter. One of the most popular methods is to gather up some kina (sea urchins) and break them up with a rock. Place them at the selected spot and then retreat and allow the burley to ‘cook’ for 10-15 minutes… Then approach it quietly so you can sneak up and monitor the burley to see if any big fish have turned up. It’s also a good idea to set 2 to 3 different burley spots and work between them – normally one of them will be more effective than the other two and so you should then concentrate on that one. You can also use the time spent waiting for the burley to ‘cook’ by collecting more kina and replenishing your burley spots. Open the kina with your knife and throw them onto your existing burley spots but remember to do this from a safe distance so that you can’t be seen. Once you have set a few burley spots and made the obvious mistakes of setting them too deep, or forgetting where you set them, or approaching them incorrectly – you will eventually learn how to get all of the elements in place. Like anything, it takes practice but eventually all the cards will fall into place and you’ll stumble upon some real giants, which will remain etched in your memory forever! When you find a good spot don’t forget it- come back to it and remember the tides and the burley that you used. One day you’ll land that 20 pounder! Midwater Snapper Hunting This is a technique that is not experienced very often or used widely but can be effective. It usually occurs in deeper water near structures/pinnacles. Often snapper can be found in midwater – most often sitting below other smaller species such as pink maomao or kahawai. If you can float very still on the surface, the fish below you will lift up, bringing the snapper with them. The snapper are waiting to feed on debris from the fish above. When the fish get closer, you can slowly drop through the pinkies /kahawai to see the snapper in midwater. You won’t get long to execute a shot so you need to be quick. It’s best to try to dive down at a 30-45 degree angle behind them so that you approach them in their blind spots. Mid body shots are your best bet – near the pectoral fin will ensure a good holding shot. Many snapper have been lost from unsecured shots. Snapper also have strong / thick skulls which have been known to deflect spears so again shot placement is important. Play the fish in gently as their delicate flesh can cause the shafts to tear out. Always ensure you have good equipment – strong rubbers and sharp spears and above all remember you need to be stealthy and alert – patience is always the key to a successful snapper hunt. Good luck!
	Tarakihi More information Scientific Name Nemadactylus macropterus Legal Length & Limit The daily bag limit varies around New Zeraland Auckalnd Kermadec Area, Centarl Area & Challenger Area total bag limit of 20 per person and 25cm in length. South East Area, Southland Area & Fiordland Area 15 per person and 25cm in length. Spearfishing Advice Found on weed lines usually just in smaller schools. Very often single fish are sighted. A good burley will bring them in. If you dive on the weed line and lay flat on the sand, use your hand to flick sand up, this usually will bring the fish into range. Keep your eyes looking down and look out the top of your mask lens, this will hide your eyes so the fish cannot see them. You can also cover your eyes with your hands and look between your fingers to see the approaching fish.
	Trevally More information Scientific Name Pseudocaranx dentex Legal Length & Limit Minimum length 25cm Trevally are included as your combined daily bag limit of fin fish. There are different amounts allowed depending on where you are in New Zealnd Auckland Central and Challenger are 20 per person South East Area, Southland Area, and Fiorlans Area are 30 per person Description Trevally are schooling fish, most abundant in the warmer waters off the northern North Island but summer stragglers reach to banks peninsula. Adult schools are often seen near headlands, pinnacles and islands where currents tend to concentrate plankton. At times, large schools of trevally break the surface when feeding. The deep body, separated dorsal fins and row of ridged plates near the tail base are distinctive features of this species, as is the greenish colouration with metallic overtones and the dark spot above the gill plate. Its fins are yellowish. Habitat & Feeding A plankton feeder, food seems to be anything locally available, whether from a rocky shore or a muddy bottom offshore to depths around one hundred meters, small fishes predominate. In summer trevally form close packed schools, backs humping above the water as krill and other plankton are gulped down. If plankton food is scarce, they will suck up sediment to sift out worms and other small organisms, large Age & Growth As the Trevally grows beyond 40cm its back becomes a darker blur-green. The head also develops a hump the Trevally are slow growing and long living, some fish may exceed 45 years. Food Quality Firm flesh suited to frying, smoking and sashimi Hunting Techniques Trevally responds very well to burling and flashers, this is one of the most effective way to target this species. Sometimes when the Trevally don’t respond to burly diving down on a weed edge, lying still and flicking sand up can bring stragglers in off the sand. But they are often very cagey. In summer big bait balls of Trevally and kahawai will be seen, jumping in the middle and spearing them from the surface is quite straightforward. But be aware often large kingfish lurk beneath. Where to Shoot the Fish Where ever possible try to dispatch the fish by aiming for the head or spine area. Equipment 110cm rail speargun like Riffe, Picasso or Freedivers.